Posted by Jerry Davidson on August 01, 2000 at 00:24:00:
In Reply to: How I would do it posted by Loren Perry on July 31, 2000 at 15:27:02:
: Even though we're talking about one of my competitors, I'll try to provide an objective description of how I would install PE window frames on the Minicraft kit parts. HINT: A set of Robert Hahn's plans in 1/350 scale will be invaluable for locating where each frame type is to be used.
: 1. First, I'd remove one sample of each window frame to use as a template to cut out all the matching openings in the relevant plastic kit bulkheads. I would make each opening a few thousandths of an inch smaller in circumference so the frame will not fall through the opening. Use a small-diameter drill and a set of jeweler's files to shape each opening. When done, pre-paint all the plastic bulkheads white, and allow to dry. This first step will be the hardest and most time-consuming part of the job. Once this is done, everything else is relatively easy.
: 2. I would also use a small straight-edge (steel ruler, etc.) to mark pencil lines at the top and bottom of all the identical openings on each bulkhead to ensure they'll all be lined up. This is very important - if the window frames are more than a couple of thousandth's of an inch off in any dimension, the misalignment will spoil the overall effect, giving a "toontown" look to the model. The franes MUST be lined up straight and spaced evenly.
: 3. Now I would spray paint (airbrush) the entire PE window frame fret Brown or White as required. Use paper to mask off groups of frames to keep the proper colors where they belong.
: 4. When dry, cut all the frames free and separate them into groups of identical shape. Store them separately in small containers such as empty 35mm film containers, and mark the containers as to types of frames inside.
: 5. Now hand-brush matching paint to every frame where you had to cut them loose from the brass "sprue". If you don't do this, the exposed brass will gleam from random spots in the light and again spoil the overall effect you're trying to achieve. Hold the frames very gently with tweezers and try not to scratch the paint or bend them - they are very delicate.
: 6. Now pick the smallest bulkhead to start with and select the correct frames. As you acquire the knack, you can advance to the larger bulkheads.
: Lay them all out in a row and have your tweezers and magnifiers handy. You'll also need a bottle of Micro-Scale's "Kristal Kleer" - this is a small bottle of adhesive that's very much like Elmer's Glue (or white glue) but it dries perfectly clear. Also get a small, pointed artist's paintbrush, some Testor's Dullcote (for brushing, not spraying) and a bowl of clean water.
: 7. Line up the first frame over the opening and GENTLY hold it in place with tweezers. You can also use a small wooden stick - the object here is to keep the frame from sliding out of place while you apply the Kristal Kleer, while at the same time not bending or scratching the frame. Also, make sure all the frames are absolutely flat and not bent or twisted, or they won't lay flat against the bulkhead.
: 8. While holding the frame in position, dip your pointed paintbrush into the Kristal Kleer (KK from now on) and brush a thin bead around the frame's circumference. This will glue the frame in place. You can also adjust its final position for a few seconds before the KK sets up and dries. Don't fill in the mullions at this time. Now go on to the next frame and continue until all frames are in place.
: 9. When dry, go back and fill in all the mullions with KK. The KK will dry totally clear and give you a very neat simulation of the glass inside each frame. No glue is required and no clear plastic is needed for glazing by using this technique. Clean the KK off your brush with water.
: 10. After the KK has completely dried, brush a thin coat of Dullcote around each frame's circumference to hide the shine from the KK. This will neatly blend the frame into the bulkhead while at the same time allow sharp color separations between the frames and the surrounding bulkheads.
: 11. Repeat as necessary until all the 200+ frames have been done (better you than me!)
: That's how I'd do it - if anyone has any better ideas, now's the time to speak up.
Mr. Perry,
There you go again. Making a simple process sound more difficult than it really is. You really should confine your definitions and directions to your own PE. It would better serve you
Mr. Davidson