Posted by Loren Perry on July 31, 2000 at 23:07:00:
In Reply to: Nightmare posted by Bob Read on July 31, 2000 at 18:40:42:
: Loren:
: Your procedure outline is thourough, accurate and as I expected, nightmarish.
: You've convinced me that the decal route is the way to go. I'd be willing to challenge anyone to do the PE frames and I'll do the decals. I'll bet my decals will look more uniform, better aligned, and will not attract attention.
Well, now that I've covered the PE option, here's how I'd go about using the decal window frames:
1. First, I'd cut out a single sample of each window frame design, trimming as close to the outer frame as possible. I'd use these as templates as in Step 1 of my description of the PE frame installation, ie. as guides to shaping all the window openings in the plastic bulkheads. Then I'd pre-paint the bulkheads as described in the PE procedure.
2. Now I'd carefully cut out all the decal window frames, allowing about 1/32" to 1/16" extra clear film around the circumference of each frame.
3. When done, separate all the frames into identical groups and store them in separate containers.
4. Starting with the smallest bulkhead (and working your way up to the larger ones as you get the feel for it), soak one decal in water and then coax it into place using a small paintbrush dipped in water. Adjust it into its final position before it dries. Do not attempt to blot the decal dry because there's no support for the center due to the opening in the bulkhead behind it. But you can speed drying up by twisting a piece of facial tissue into a point and carefully soaking up excess water around the decal - just be careful not to disturb the decal.
5. After all the frames have dried, use a small pointed paintbrush and apply a very small amount of Hobsco Solvaset or Microscale Decals' "Micro-sol" to the edges of the decal ONLY. Don't get it in the center where there's no support or the decal will sag into the opening. The object is to get the edges (the clear overlap you left in place on each frame) to adhere tightly to the surrounding bulkheads.
6. When dry, brush on a light coat of Future Floor Wax (a clear acylic liquid wax sold at super-markets) over the clear parts of each window frame. This will strenghen and protect the decal film after it has dried.
HINT: If something goes wrong at this point, you can remove the decal by pressing a piece of cellophane tape over it and peeling it off. Now you can start anew.
7. Finally, brush a thin coat of Testors' Dullcote onto the clear overlap (but not the clear window areas) to hide the decal shine and blend it into the surrounding painted bulkheads.
NOTE: The problem of decal "silvering" will not be a serious factor here because the decals are being applied to white-painted surfaces. Silvering is most noticeable on dark surfaces. On a white-painted surface, even severe silvering will be very hard to see except under unusual lighting conditions.
Good luck!